LET'S GET ONE thing straight, right from the start, a Bristol is never going to be cheap in the way that, say, a Triumph Heraid is cheap. But when you consider that a new Bristol costs over 100,000, the 10 grand you'll pay for a decent 1961 to 1976 version does not seem so bad. Funnily enough, there's plenty to link the older cars to the latest version, too, and that's aside from the common ground of rarity. For starters, there's the Chrysler V8 engine, which has been a feature of Bristols since the six-cylinder Bristol 406 was replaced by the V8 powered 407 in 1961. Then there's the aluminium body and hefty chassis construction, the flap in the front wing's trailing edge for access to the spare wheel and battery, and the subtly-refined interior that mixes leather and wood without a hint of cliche.

From the 407, the range progressed in the typically careful, studied way that Bristols have always progressed, through various minor restyles. The 408 and 409 differ only in detail, but the 410 received 15in diameter wheels in place of earlier 16in items. This is now crucial, because much better tyres are available for the 15in wheels. Power-assited steering also enabled the gearing of the steering to be raised from the 410 onwards, which returned the sporty feel that had been lost with the introduction of the 407s.

But the 1969 introduction of the 411 made the biggest difference. A capacity hike from 5.2 litres to 6.3 gave almost lOObhp extra, producing a four-seater that could reach almost140mph and O-60mph in seven seconds. For the DIY enthusiast, the great appeal of a Bristol is its simple and robust construction. Most spares can still be found thanks to Bristol Cars itself, the owners club and a handful of enthusiastic specialists. There are pitfalls, most of all rot in the rear structure, but a Bristol could still make a viable practical classic.

SPARES CHECKOUT

BODY:
Bristol outer panels are aluminium, so rust isn't a problem, although minor bubbling under the paint can occur. However, specialists rarely have to replace a panel - they just cut out any damaged areas and weld in new sections. If a new panel is needed, Bristol Cars is sometimes able to supply replacements off the shelf, or have a panel made. Panel-making experts can do the same -- at a price. Any outer trim is tricky if it's missing, but it's well-made so secondhand parts can usually be rechromed. Window edging is chrome plated brass, bumpers are hefty and grilles generally just require re-riveting to eliminate rattles. Bumpers for the 407 and 408 are likely to be hard to find, though. Windscreens are occasionally remade in batches, so sometimes a secondhand one has to be found.

MECHANICAL:
The Chrysler V8 rarely plays up and, if it does, parts are available from American car specialists in the UK, or from the United States. Gearboxes are all super-tough Torqueflites, but those in the 407 and 408 are now becoming hard to rebuild - bearings in particular have disappeared. The best option is simply to fit a later box. Suspension parts generally have to be ordered through Bristol, and balljoints are getting rare to the point that a secondhand one may to be sourced. The rear axle is a Salisbury, and the parts are easy to obtain through transmission specialists. Power steering (410 and 411 only) is ZF and infinitely rebuildable. Parts are no problem.

Electrics are all courtesy of Lucas, so everything is simple, reasonably reliable and can be sourced though companies such as Holden Vintage and Classic or autojumble stalls. Even the electric windows (411 s2-on) are powered by Lucas wiper motors adapteed motors adapated to fit.

INTERIOR:
You won't find replacement interior parts new, but designs are simple and can be copied by any decent trimmer. The leather is high quality and long lasting. Instruments are British and easily repairable by Richfield Speedy Cables and other specialists (Nisonger Instruments in the US).

DRIVING:
The 407, 408 and 409 (to a lesser extent) feel typically Fifties, with vague steering and wallowy handling. Smooth, adequate power. The 410 and 411 are faster and better handling, thanks to power-assisted steering and radial tyres. The 411 has 335 horses in the stable, which makes it astoundingly fast. Brakes are good (discs all-round with servo assistance). Good visibility, high comfort levels, but with sporting feel.

BEST BOOKS:
A Private Car: An Account of the Car by LJK Setright, Palawan Press. Beautiful, informative but pretentious and 300 pounds! Look for out-of print Bristol, the Quiet Survivor by Charles Oxley, plus road test compilations from Brooklands and Transport Source Books.

SPOT THE ROT:
Rear structure around suspension mounting points, spring mounts, bump stops and inner wheel arches (inspect with car on ramp and wheels off). Chassis outriggers, chassis rails (towards rear wheels) and front crossmember. Minor bubbling around edges of wheel arches and wings

EXPERTS SAY:
dont worry about . . . the engine, which is legendarily strong. Lack of power, usually due to a gummed-up carburettor. Inoperative gearbox kickdown (linkage needs adjustment). Sagging front suspension (fibre packing pieces have disintegrated). Vague steering on 408 and 409 - they're all like that.

beware of . . . rot in the rear structure, very expensive. High costs and/or difficulty of respraying the aluminium body. Missing trim (interior or exterior), however, designs are easily copied. Interior in need of new leather and reveneering. High cost and rarity of 16in radials for 408 and 409 (crossplies are cheaper but not as good).

BODGEWATCH:
Underseal anywhere around the rear end could mean the car is actually beyond economical repair, but disguised. The actual chassis ends just ahead of rear wheels, so rear body strength is crucial.

PEER GROUP: Rolls Royce Silver Shadow, Jensen CV8, Mercedes 300SEL 6.3, Alvis TD/TE/TF 21